The 12 Days of Ellee The Fifth Day The Red Christmas Dress

The 12 Days of Ellee

On the Fifth Day of Ellee 

My mother made for me

A Red Dress with Short Sleeves,

A Sassy Little Mini Dress

One Gaping Green Dress

A Fitted Chevron Dress

and a Turquoise Dress fitted to me.

Ellee really loved this dress and wanted to wear it special for Christmas.  The only thing she didn't like was the long sleeves.  So, it was time to get to work on cutting those sleeves.  I didn't want to just have a fitted sleeve.  I wanted to use the excess fabric to make the sleeves full.  Time to cut, cut, cut.

First, I folded the dress in half and matched up the sleeves.  Once they were matched up, I cut straight across where I would want the sleeve to be.  

With the leftover sleeve fabric, I matched up the leftover piece with the longest length of the cut sleeve. (Shown in picture)

Folded in half to cut sleeves

matching up the cut sleeve with leftover
sleeve fabric.

two pieces cut the same length as the sleeve

Next, I laid the sleeve out flat, matching the inner seam and creating a center seam.  I cut on the center seam of both sides.
I left about 1/2 inch uncut along the top of the sleeve. (Shown in picture)

cut the outer sleeve all the way to 1/2 inch
before the top of sleeve

Laid out flat matching the inner seam

Next, I cut the sleeve insert pieces that will fit inside the
existing sleeve.

cutting the sleeve inserts lengthwise

Next, I cut the sleeve inserts in half lengthwise.  I laid them out flat and took a picture so you get the idea.

Laid out flat

       Next, I matched up one sleeve insert side to the cut opening in the existing sleeve.  Pin that baby down and pin on both sides, both sleeves.                                                                                        

Sew the sides as you have pinned them.  Stop short of sewing all the way to the top.  This leaves room for the sleeve to be "fitted" into the spot.  Next is the tricky step.  Take the width of the inserted sleeve and make an accordion like "fan", evenly giving half on one side and half on the other.  Pin it flat with all the folds laying evenly flat.  Sew straight across (as pictured below).

Sewing the sides on the sleeve inserts.

My attempt at folding accordion style
and sewing straight across.

After sewing, you should flip it outside in and it should look like this picture below.  I used my serger to put a straight seam in the hemmed edge, then sewed a straight stitch to finish up the sleeve.

Finished hem on the sleeve.

And there you have it.  An inset sleeve for a beautiful girl.